UNLESS we achieve worldwide socialism within the next few weeks — and although I’m not ruling that out in the present climate, it would be improvident to entirely depend on it — it seems possible that we will see food shortages later this year. 

I’ve written to my local MP suggesting that Richard Branson, Lord Sugar and all the other pointless tycoons be rounded up, chained together, and made to work the land for us. 

But I haven’t had a reply yet, so just in case the government doesn’t take up this idea, my thoughts are turning towards beans.

Both runner beans and climbing French beans produce large amounts of food per square yard, and in a form that can be stored effectively: dried on the vine, dehydrated in a food dehydrator or cool oven, frozen, salted, pickled or made into chutney.

Since these are such well-known vegetables, I’m not going to go into the basics of growing them here. 

Instead, I’ll discuss one of the few things that can go wrong with what are, generally speaking, easy crops.

Here in the West Country, we often get strong winds in late summer or early autumn, which is just when the bean plants are at their tallest and most top-heavy. 

It’s quite possible to lose a whole crop to a sudden gale. Whatever type of beanpoles you use, bamboo or otherwise, it’s crucial that when setting them up, which is done before planting or sowing the beans, you sink each one well into the ground. 

A depth of 18 inches (46cm) isn’t excessive, but the rule of thumb is to push the poles as far in as the texture of your ground will allow. 

In very hard soil, it’s worth making a hole for the stick to go into, using a hammer and a length of metal pipe.

If you’re only growing a few plants, or, lacking outdoor space, you’re growing them in large patio tubs, then a wigwam shape of beanpoles is best, where the poles are set in a circle and tied at the top. 

But the most stable support is an “A frame,” in which two rows of eight-foot poles are set facing each other, about 2-3 foot (60-90cm) apart. 

Within the rows, the sticks are around nine inches (23cm) apart, and the poles are inserted in the ground so that the two rows lean into each other.

Where the opposing poles cross, tie each pair together. I make that joint as low as possible, because it’s easier to work on, it’s more stable, and it allows more light into the row of growing plants.

Now lay one, or if necessary more, poles along the whole top of the row, lying in the Xs formed by the crossed sticks. Tie that pole to each crossed pair.

One final precaution, suggested from experience by a reader: if you’re growing beans on a balcony, tie the pot to the railings so it doesn’t end up in the car park.

You can buy Mat Coward’s new book, Eat Your Front Garden, at mstar.link/EatYourFrontGarden. It gives detailed advice on how to grow and eat ornamental plants that make your garden attractive but which are also edible.