THERE are several cheerful reasons for growing amaranth, but there’s also one rather depressing one: climate change. It’s one of the few annual vegetables that doesn’t seem to be bothered by either wet summers or heatwaves.

You may already be growing it, without knowing it. Amaranthus is a genus of plants with many members, including the popular garden ornamental, love-lies-bleeding. Every species is edible (according to the experts at Garden Organic), though some are more palatable than others. Luckily, love-lies-bleeding is one of the best to eat, easiest to grow, and handsomest.
 
For the widest choice, have a look at the Real Seeds website: www.realseeds.co.uk. They sell a number of types, either for producing a harvest of seeds (which are used as a grain, similar to rice) or leaves, which are commonly eaten as an excellent cooked green, often called callaloo. Both leaf and grain are considered unusually valuable foods by nutritionists.

May is the month for starting amaranth, either by scattering the seeds on moist, warm soil outside, or — more reliably — by sowing it in trays or pots indoors, on a bright windowsill.

The seeds need light to germinate, so don’t cover them over with compost. A bit of clingfilm or glass over the top of the pot is a good idea, to keep the surface of the compost from drying out.

At ordinary room temperature, the seeds will germinate quickly and grow rapidly. You can plant them out into the garden once they’re about 4 inches (10cm) tall if you’re confident that you’ve seen your last frost. I prefer to pot them into small pots and keep them under some cover, like an unheated greenhouse, until early June.

That gives both the soil, and the nights, a chance to warm up properly. Under those conditions, amaranth grows at an express rate. The spacing between the plants isn’t crucial; somewhere around 12 inches (30cm) is about right, a bit more or less is unlikely to make much difference.

There is a huge and delightful degree of variation between different amaranths, in leaf colour, flower tassel colour, size of plant and growth habit. If you’re growing a tall type — and you’ll soon find out — it may need staking. These can be quite top-heavy plants, and I’ve lost a few to the wind in summer storms.

Amaranth requires little further attention from the gardener while it’s growing. I’ve never heard of it suffering from any pest or disease in this country. I’ve never watered an amaranth, except for a few days after planting it out, and they certainly don’t need feeding. Weeds won’t trouble them: they grow too fast for that.

Harvesting and processing the seed is time-consuming, though enjoyable. You’ll find instructions in various books and websites. It’s worth it: the grain is tasty and filling. Try it as popcorn — you’ll be amazed.

Leaves can be taken once the plant reaches about a foot (30cm) tall. Use them young; later on, they’ll get smaller and tougher.